Hey everyone,
I was wondering if anyone was able to make a PC Engine plug in based on the pin layouts given on the Retrode website? I'm hoping to buy one if possible so I can dump my PC Engine and Turbografx games.
I'd also be interested in buying a pre-built one.
i was thinking of making them but im not sure how i would get the cartridge connector since the consoles are so expensive.
https://twitter.com/famulator/status/819347184592162816 (https://twitter.com/famulator/status/819347184592162816)
It looks like this guy may have sold some connectors to db electronics. You might be able to check if he still has any available.
Edit: It looks like they're sold on Amazon Japan too.
https://www.amazon.co.jp/dp/B01NCLG45T (https://www.amazon.co.jp/dp/B01NCLG45T)
heres a render of a board ive designed but until i get the pc engine game i ordered i cant say for certain the connector pins are the right size etc but its a start.
removed image
i will change it up as i go, for example i will probs change the bridge points for something like dip switches so you can change back and forth.
Would the adapter you designed be able to dump Turbografx games as well as PC Engine games? I believe the pinouts are slightly different based on the region.
Quote from: Shwing on 10/Sep/2017 04:08:19 PM
Would the adapter you designed be able to dump Turbografx games as well as PC Engine games? I believe the pinouts are slightly different based on the region.
from what i could see its just the data pins thats reversed so instead of data 0 to data 0 its data 0 to data 7 so you should be able too but of course it all needs testing.
ive redesigned it with dip switches this is what it looks like now:
removed imagewhen you turn all of the TG16 dips on you turn the PC Engine dips all off and vice versa.
i know the dips are in the way of the cart pins atm but this is all just a design right now.
Awesome! I look forward to this adapter coming out. Hopefully you can contact the sellers and get the connectors in bulk.
one i receive the pc engine card game i ordered i will have a better idea of the pins and see if i can perhaps find a easy to get connector that will work
a quick update on the TG16/PC Engine plugin i designed, ive changed up the connector to use 2 SIBF-20-F-S-AD connectors (slightly modified) which have the right pitch and will work i just gotta wait until i can order the boards for testing and receive the connectors.
Pictures:
(https://s25.postimg.org/inizmu9kb/TG16_PC_Engine_Plugin_Back.png) (https://s25.postimg.org/ks3cnxb73/TG16_PC_Engine_Plugin_Back.png)
(https://s25.postimg.org/3qailtwbv/TG16_PC_Engine_Plugin_Front.png) (https://s25.postimg.org/fs5wfz5kf/TG16_PC_Engine_Plugin_Front.png)
theres alot going on but it should do TG16 and PC Engine and it should be able to fit into a snes case and just for the hell of it ive added test points for all the connections that arent being used.
Wouldn't it be easier to use vias instead so the PC Engine connector could just slot in?
Quote from: Shwing on 16/Sep/2017 05:37:26 AM
Wouldn't it be easier to use vias instead so the PC Engine connector could just slot in?
i dont have a pc engine or turbografx16 to get a connector from so im using 2 SIBF-20-F-S-AD which work and are not through hole.
i also dont have the library file (eagle) for the original connector so i cant do that currently. If you can help with this in anyway please let me know, i will see what i can do though.
I actually have a spare HuCard connector from a broken PC Engine I bought. I have the original PCB it was connected to as well. Anything I can do with that?
Quote from: Shwing on 16/Sep/2017 10:38:42 PM
I actually have a spare HuCard connector from a broken PC Engine I bought. I have the original PCB it was connected to as well. Anything I can do with that?
what do you mean as far as what you can do with it?
also im looking into getting the files needed to add that connector too but without having one myself i just gotta see what i can do or stick with 2 SIBF-20-F-S-AD and modify them so they will work since they are easy to get but if you are talking about donating it to me i certainly wouldnt say no :D
but as i said if i can i will have it setup to use the original connector as well as those.
Shwing if you wouldnt mind pm me some close up pics of the connector and maybe checkout how close it is to the game gear connector since from what i saw in pics it has that type of pin layout so if you can see if it matches it but has more or less pins that would be great and easy for me to then make the connector myself on eagle.
I can take some pictures later but compared to the game gear each row of vias is the same distance apart. The two rows however are closer together than the game gear's rows.
I measured it and the distance between 1 and 2 is the same distance as 1 and 3.
Quote from: Shwing on 17/Sep/2017 04:31:24 AM
I can take some pictures later but compared to the game gear each row of vias is the same distance apart. The two rows however are closer together than the game gear's rows.
I measured it and the distance between 1 and 2 is the same distance as 1 and 3.
if possible send me some good pics and perhaps both next to each other and stuff like that, it would really help thanks
(https://abload.de/img/pinoutm0pvx.jpg)
Sorry for the crappy picture. The through holes are approx. 2.5mm apart all around on the PC Engine PCB.
If you make the PCB with the through holes I can order one to test with my connector.
Quote from: Shwing on 17/Sep/2017 10:24:42 PM
Sorry for the crappy picture. The through holes are approx. 2.5mm apart all around on the PC Engine PCB.
If you make the PCB with the through holes I can order one to test with my connector.
whats the distance between the bottom through holes and the top?
2.5mm between through holes 1 and 2.
Quote from: Shwing on 18/Sep/2017 12:18:56 AM
2.5mm between through holes 1 and 2.
2.5mm from the top row to the bottom row? and what about from one pin to another on the same row.
Quote from: RazorX2014 on 18/Sep/2017 01:11:57 AM
Quote from: Shwing on 18/Sep/2017 12:18:56 AM
2.5mm between through holes 1 and 2.
2.5mm from the top row to the bottom row? and what about from one pin to another on the same row.
Sorry about that. Its 3mm diagonal from 1 to 2. The ones next to each other are 2.5mm.
Quote from: Shwing on 18/Sep/2017 01:36:02 AM
Quote from: RazorX2014 on 18/Sep/2017 01:11:57 AM
Quote from: Shwing on 18/Sep/2017 12:18:56 AM
2.5mm between through holes 1 and 2.
2.5mm from the top row to the bottom row? and what about from one pin to another on the same row.
Sorry about that. Its 3mm diagonal from 1 to 2. The ones next to each other are 2.5mm.
thanks im getting there, now can you post an image of the entire row of pins since your first was cut off i want too see both rows in there entirety including where it tells you what pin the end ones are thank you.
Edit:
nm i think i got it
(https://abload.de/img/pinout2aesnm.jpg)
Edit: oops well here it is anyways.
Quote from: Shwing on 18/Sep/2017 03:33:34 AM
Edit: oops well here it is anyways.
thanks, hows this look:
(https://s25.postimg.org/x1i8k7my3/Turbo_Grafx-16_Slot_Pinout.png) (https://s25.postimg.org/djnl49q0f/Turbo_Grafx-16_Slot_Pinout.png)
the drill holes are the size i set for my sega card to master system slot and that fit perfectly and its basically the same.
Yeah that looks great actually!
Quote from: Shwing on 18/Sep/2017 04:24:57 AM
Yeah that looks great actually!
ok this is what i got so far:
(https://s25.postimg.org/rtx5fr6cr/Turbo_Grafx-16_Plugin_rev3.png) (https://s25.postimg.org/mv9n182jz/Turbo_Grafx-16_Plugin_rev3.png)
and this is what it looks like with the original slot laid over the top:
(https://s25.postimg.org/c9prp7w8b/Turbo_Grafx-16_Plugin_ofg.png) (https://s25.postimg.org/e1iqk4flb/Turbo_Grafx-16_Plugin_ofg.png)
it looks like now im gonna have to move the dip switches a little :D of course i just scaled this from an image so it could be wrong.
dips switches are just connecting one point to another so it would be possible to just solder them on the opposite side.
Awesome. When your finished I can order one and test it to make sure it works. What would I need to do to dump a PC Engine game vs a Turbografx game?
Quote from: Shwing on 18/Sep/2017 03:58:13 PM
Awesome. When your finished I can order one and test it to make sure it works. What would I need to do to dump a PC Engine game vs a Turbografx game?
a pc engine game lol, but i dont know how the retrode will work with pc engine if its already setup to detect and work with turbografx then it will most likely show up as a turbografx rom and you just need to rename the extension.
but bare in mind this is still design stage and it will take be a while to get to the point where im happy to order some boards.
am working on multiple things at the same time for example im working on a vectrex plugin too which im waiting for stuff to arrive so i can see how the retrode handles that and then i will need to speak to someone who works on the firmware to add support for it if its gonna work and then im going to make others too.
Great! Well I look forward to all these projects you're working on.
Quote from: Shwing on 18/Sep/2017 06:20:25 PM
Great! Well I look forward to all these projects you're working on.
its probs not possible but im aiming to have a plugin for every cartridge system excluding stuff like the nintendo ds because if i remember correctly that stuffs encrypted anyway.
Yeah that would be ideal. I wonder if the Neo Geo is even possible?
Quote from: Shwing on 18/Sep/2017 07:18:35 PM
Yeah that would be ideal. I wonder if the Neo Geo is even possible?
which neo geo?
AES
Quote from: Shwing on 18/Sep/2017 08:12:56 PM
AES
its something i will look into in the future but that would be tough because the cartridges have two pcbs in them
Oh that's true. Completely forgot about that.
Quote from: Shwing on 18/Sep/2017 11:00:04 PM
Oh that's true. Completely forgot about that.
i will look into it at some point because i know the games can be dumped but because of the price of the games it will probs be last on my list.
Would you know if there is a reliable way to dump 2600 games?
Quote from: Shwing on 19/Sep/2017 05:54:25 AM
Would you know if there is a reliable way to dump 2600 games?
yes i have the schematic for a 2600 plugin
Have you been able to test it?
Quote from: Shwing on 19/Sep/2017 07:12:12 PM
Have you been able to test it?
its from the retrode site so it should work but i havent got a 2600 game to test it.
Updated:
snes-2600.lbr (http://www.retrode.org/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/snes-2600.lbr)
2k6-0005.sch (http://www.retrode.org/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/2k6-0005.sch)
2k6-0005.brd (http://www.retrode.org/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/2k6-0005.brd)
Those designs for the A2600 plugin were outdated at the time of your post; I just replaced them with a more recent version.
http://www.retrode.org/plug-in-adapters/
Thanks Matthias! I'll order one to test it out.
Quote from: Shwing on 20/Sep/2017 07:36:46 PM
Thanks Matthias! I'll order one to test it out.
where you gonna order from
DirtyPCBs probably. I think the OSHPark ones are too thick for this.
Quote from: Shwing on 20/Sep/2017 10:07:55 PM
DirtyPCBs probably. I think the OSHPark ones are too thick for this.
from what i remember dirtypcbs were expensive
What would you recommend?
Quote from: Shwing on 20/Sep/2017 11:48:29 PM
What would you recommend?
i always use pcbway there boards are pretty high quality.
this is from the dirtypcbs website:
Where are my damn PCBs?
Your Gerbers will be sent to the factory on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday at 10:00am China time. There's no point in doing it sooner because they'll just queue them at the factory... Rush orders are pushed hourly, on the hour.
The factory takes 3-8 days to manufacture the boards. They batch as they please, it's cheapest. If it's a holiday in China we'll let you know before you order!
Boards come back to us, we ship them the same day
Hong Kong Post takes 1 to 8+ weeks, depending on where you are
DHL/FEDEX/UPS take 2-5days, tracking is provided 12-48 hours after shipment
whats the point waiting the extra time when you can order direct.
Good point. I'll check it out and hopefully I can find a few 2600 connectors.
Quote from: Shwing on 21/Sep/2017 06:52:06 AM
Good point. I'll check it out and hopefully I can find a few 2600 connectors.
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/sullins-connector-solutions/EBC12DCWN/S3304-ND/927256
Thanks!
Quote from: RazorX2014 on 21/Sep/2017 03:45:11 AM
Quote from: Shwing on 20/Sep/2017 11:48:29 PM
What would you recommend?
i always use pcbway there boards are pretty high quality.
this is from the dirtypcbs website:
Where are my damn PCBs?
Your Gerbers will be sent to the factory on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday at 10:00am China time. There's no point in doing it sooner because they'll just queue them at the factory... Rush orders are pushed hourly, on the hour.
The factory takes 3-8 days to manufacture the boards. They batch as they please, it's cheapest. If it's a holiday in China we'll let you know before you order!
Boards come back to us, we ship them the same day
Hong Kong Post takes 1 to 8+ weeks, depending on where you are
DHL/FEDEX/UPS take 2-5days, tracking is provided 12-48 hours after shipment
whats the point waiting the extra time when you can order direct.
I will recommend SeeedStudio PCB
https://www.seeedstudio.com/fusion_pcb.html
Quite cheap. Fast DHL shipping, only two days arrive to Australia :D
Quote from: Elaneo on 13/Oct/2017 07:25:06 AM
Quote from: RazorX2014 on 21/Sep/2017 03:45:11 AM
Quote from: Shwing on 20/Sep/2017 11:48:29 PM
What would you recommend?
i always use pcbway there boards are pretty high quality.
this is from the dirtypcbs website:
Where are my damn PCBs?
Your Gerbers will be sent to the factory on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday at 10:00am China time. There's no point in doing it sooner because they'll just queue them at the factory... Rush orders are pushed hourly, on the hour.
The factory takes 3-8 days to manufacture the boards. They batch as they please, it's cheapest. If it's a holiday in China we'll let you know before you order!
Boards come back to us, we ship them the same day
Hong Kong Post takes 1 to 8+ weeks, depending on where you are
DHL/FEDEX/UPS take 2-5days, tracking is provided 12-48 hours after shipment
whats the point waiting the extra time when you can order direct.
I will recommend SeeedStudio PCB
https://www.seeedstudio.com/fusion_pcb.html
Quite cheap. Fast DHL shipping, only two days arrive to Australia :D
ive tried them before there boards are crap pcbway are much better
Quote from: RazorX2014 on 21/Sep/2017 03:45:11 AM
Quote from: Shwing on 20/Sep/2017 11:48:29 PM
What would you recommend?
i always use pcbway there boards are pretty high quality.
this is from the dirtypcbs website:
Where are my damn PCBs?
Your Gerbers will be sent to the factory on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday at 10:00am China time. There's no point in doing it sooner because they'll just queue them at the factory... Rush orders are pushed hourly, on the hour.
The factory takes 3-8 days to manufacture the boards. They batch as they please, it's cheapest. If it's a holiday in China we'll let you know before you order!
Boards come back to us, we ship them the same day
Hong Kong Post takes 1 to 8+ weeks, depending on where you are
DHL/FEDEX/UPS take 2-5days, tracking is provided 12-48 hours after shipment
whats the point waiting the extra time when you can order direct.
seeed studio fusion https://www.seeedstudio.com/fusion_pcb.html
ive ordered heaps from them, good quality boards, and never had a fault.
$25 US delivered for 10 boards 10cm x 10cm
I made a working TG16/PCE Plugin PCB. Prototype uses a slot pulled from a broken console. If anyone wants an original HuCard slot, www.gamedoctorhk.com sells HuCard slots (still attached to the daughterboard).
Matthias implemented automatic switching between TG16 and PCE data formats and it appears to work properly. The TG16/PCE code does need a bit of work. There are a couple of areas for immediate improvement: the force system setting seems to only work with TG16 cards; and the overdump detection code is ineffective. Checked the code and realized that the forceMapper controls the PCE/TG16 data when using the tg16 forceSystem setting. Also there is no overdump detection so I'll be looking to implement it.
I'll see what I can do to fix the code but the improvements will come after I release the v0.24 SMS/GG firmware and v0.25 VBOY firmware.
Tested my prototype further and realized that there is an error in the published pinout.
The uppermost address lines (A19 and A18) are swapped.
SNES Pin 43 (BA2) connect to TG Pin 33 (A18)
SNES Pin 44 (BA3) connect to TG Pin 3 (A19)
I'll revise my schematic and board layout.
Quote from: skaman on 18/Jan/2018 07:17:49 PM
Tested my prototype further and realized that there is an error in the published pinout.
The uppermost address lines (A19 and A18) are swapped.
SNES Pin 43 (BA2) connect to TG Pin 33 (A18)
SNES Pin 44 (BA3) connect to TG Pin 3 (A19)
I'll revise my schematic and board layout.
Awesome! I have a connector that I pulled from a broken PC-Engine so once you get into the testing phase I'd be more than willing to help out.
Here's the working PCE/TG16 Plugin:
(https://forum.retrode.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi67.tinypic.com%2F20h0dnt.jpg&hash=2ecdb9cf7f60a3046d799cdd9e17576cf8bcfcfe)
(https://forum.retrode.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi68.tinypic.com%2F71n2c7.jpg&hash=d8858051abbe4fd68767c1c87286ca26332bfc64)
(https://forum.retrode.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi66.tinypic.com%2F291mhdu.jpg&hash=aae45e1241192f498bdea92905b989c3843f94e6)
(https://forum.retrode.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi63.tinypic.com%2Fejz9l3.jpg&hash=7475a2d264185a20d5fefda02f3c381dbab07891)
The shell was only a test with a leftover cutdown aftermarket front shell to make sure the PCB fit inside and cleared the internal standoff. I'll have to find a donor SNES shell and cut a proper shell for the plugin.
Looks awesome!
This looks excellent! Are you going to sell these or offer the schematics up for download at all? I'd be happy to help test in any way I can.
My revised prototype plugin PCB with support for Street Fighter II' arrived. The PCB adds control of /WR to enable the SF2 mapper. SF2 support requires using my PCE/TG16 firmware which will most likely be released as FW v0.26.
(https://forum.retrode.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi63.tinypic.com%2F2nrhwmp.jpg&hash=fb013143ba2f9ef1624fbbc59da1772df5359839)
(https://forum.retrode.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi63.tinypic.com%2F15ft5bk.jpg&hash=9be1d3a95334e33fa6a6c8e676f5ee5841f1c56b)
(https://forum.retrode.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi63.tinypic.com%2F23vnupc.jpg&hash=fe02e3207259039c7dfdefbf7925fb361ea69c4e)
Looks great! Can't wait to test one out.
Here are pics of the Plugin PCB in an aftermarket SNES shell:
(https://forum.retrode.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi64.tinypic.com%2F34dinat.jpg&hash=5043de6f90c8d56ff8aaf4cdaa8266aa5961fc6f)
(https://forum.retrode.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi64.tinypic.com%2Ffl8ym0.jpg&hash=0ecdddb8b210201fd29b11b7e38a2317cce3f9c8)
(https://forum.retrode.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi64.tinypic.com%2Ffwitky.jpg&hash=cc6b3ec4419de5f51af485b270ba11da6d0ffeba)
Hello, I would love to test one of these. Is there any way to purchase? I can provide my own card slot.
@panopticblue - check your PMs.
Quote from: skaman on 25/Mar/2018 09:17:24 PM
Here are pics of the Plugin PCB in an aftermarket SNES shell:
Hello, long time retrode owner but new forum member here. Searched quite a bit to figure out how to back up hu cards and made my way to this thread. I was wondering if I could purchase one of the turbografx 16 plugins/adapters? I am very interested in backing up my very own hu card roms. Thanks!
Hello, can I purchase one of these plugin PCBs? I can also provide my own HuCard slot.
@s - check your PMs.
Here's what it looks like in a black SNES cart shell.
I also made labels for it (two were created using templates created by michaelmannucci on DeviantArt).
Nice!
I had a nice chat with skaman via PM and decided to go for ordering his PCB as well as the Tototek HuCard slot - trying to mate them at my own risk.
(https://abload.de/img/sam5865c8jnx.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=sam5865c8jnx.jpg)
(https://abload.de/img/sam5866pgjkp.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=sam5866pgjkp.jpg)
Skaman's PCB as it arrived.
The Tototek Hucard slot.
(https://abload.de/img/sam5867c3jgs.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=sam5867c3jgs.jpg)
Top
(https://abload.de/img/sam58689gjfm.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=sam58689gjfm.jpg)
Underside. The mounting pins are in a different alignment than the original HuCard slot. No suprise here, since the Tototek slot is meant for use with their own dumper PCB.
(https://abload.de/img/sam587059j71.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=sam587059j71.jpg)
Side view at the mounting pins. These do not carry any electrical connection to the HuCard interface pins.
(https://abload.de/img/sam5872dtjcy.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=sam5872dtjcy.jpg)
I had to drill skaman's PCB to clear the Tototek slot mounting pins. Then I scraped the solder mask from the surface surrounding the pin holes to uncover the copper underneath. I mounted the slot onto the PCB and distributed a generous amount of solder to the mounting pins. Since the copper forms a large heat sink connected to the ground pin, having a soldering station with high thermal capacity and an extra wide tip in the handpiece helps a lot. I went for a Weller WS-81 with a WSP 80 handpiece.
(https://abload.de/img/sam5871u2jf5.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=sam5871u2jf5.jpg)
Then I soldered the rest of the interface pins and tested them against the PCB's pins usind a DMM. Some pins are assigned in a different way than found in AaronE's wiring schematic:
https://www.retrode.org/plug-in-adapters/
(https://abload.de/img/sam5873psj9k.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=sam5873psj9k.jpg)
Blazing Lazers HuCard test-fit
(https://abload.de/img/sam5875vljur.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=sam5875vljur.jpg)
(https://abload.de/img/sam5876g3kg9.jpg) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=sam5876g3kg9.jpg)
And there you have it, the HuCard plugin adaptor for the Retrode. Merrily dumping your HuCard ROMs to any device you'd like to by USB mass storage protocol. Make sure to put the whole adapter thing with the HuCard slot facing to the Retrode's backside in the SNES slot, and set the voltage switch to 5 V. Also, upgrade the Retrode's firmware to at least v0.26a - I didn't do it yet, d'oh! Too bad FLIP refuses to do the upgrade on Windows 10, so I need to make up for it tomorrow at a Windows 7 machine at work.
Modifying a stock SNES cart shell to hold the plugin adaptor is on my to do list as well.
If you did a small scale production on these (like the kazzo dumper) I would buy one!!!!!
I'd pay about $29.99 to $39.99 for it! So get to producing it (pretty please)!!!!!
I did the upgrade to Retrode firmware v0.26a beta today, and guess what: It werkz!
(https://abload.de/img/01rgjbp.gif) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=01rgjbp.gif)
(https://abload.de/img/0200jr2.gif) (https://abload.de/image.php?img=0200jr2.gif)
The Retrode also recognizes the Low Cost Flash HuCard by gamingenterprisesinc.com:
http://www.gamingenterprisesinc.com/Flash_HuCard/
I also tried the Tennokoe Bank card. The ROM can be dumped, though there's no access to its SRAM.
Regarding the Tennokoe Bank's SRAM, Chris Covell mentioned the following on the PC Engine forums:
QuoteHere's the Tennokoe Bank SRAM reading method, by the way:
Write #$68 to $0000 in bank $68. Then write 0 to $0000 in bank $78, then write #$73 to $0000 in bank $78 three times.
You can now map in bank $40 into, eg. $8000 and read up to $9FFF.
I hope this helps if there's an intention to make the SRAM readable/writeable with the Retrode with future firmware revisions. To those who don't know, the Tennokoe Bank card acts as a long-term backup method for savegames stored on the CD-ROM² system's and PC Engine Duo's internal SRAM. Since the system's SRAM is short-term capacitor backed and the Tennokoe bank card's SRAM is battery backed, they will only last for a certain time period. It could be handy to transfer savegames from the card to the PC and vice versa.
If there are any left, I would like to purchase one of your PC Engine boards :)
Did the files ever get released for the PCB? I'd love to build one.
I received the PCB last week and the Tototek Hu-Card slot today, so decided to put this together. It works great! Drilling the mounting holes for the Tototek slot was much easier than I expected it to be (I didn't even measure anything, I just scratched the PCB with the mounting pins of the cartridge slot and drilled there; it didn't need to be precise because the mounting pins are designed to bend inwards anyway), and I spent a bit of money on a soldering iron a while back so the actual soldering was pretty straightforward too.
That's very cool that you got it to mate up to the tototek cart slot so easily.
If the PCBs are still available I'm up for buying one.